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--- tecnica:motori:honda_ntv650_troubleshooting [2024/09/23 10:40] – niccolo
+++ tecnica:motori:honda_ntv650_troubleshooting [2024/11/01 15:54] (current) – [Mid RPM sputtering] niccolo
@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
-====== Honda NTV650 Revere - Ignition Troubleshooting ======
+====== Honda NTV650 Revere - Troubleshooting ======
-===== Wiring diagram =====
+===== Popping (backfire) when shifting down on engine braking =====
-Please see the page **[[honda_ntv650_wiring_diagram]]** for the full **wiring diagram in color**, download and print in large format the **PDF version**!
+The problem started to appear gradually, increasing over time. The popping became very annoying especially on steep descents when using engine braking in low gears. In general this problem is caused by a lean air/fuel mixture (poor in gasoline). The wrong ratio causes some misfires, the unburned gasoline then explodes in the exhaust due to the high temperature.
-===== Starter relay switch =====
+I solved it with a thorough cleaning of the carburetors, paying particular attention to the air cut-off valve circuit and the idle jets; see this article: **[[honda_ntv650_carburetor]]**.
-{{.:honda_ntv650:honda-ntv650-electric-diagram-starter.png?600|Honda NTV650 Starter}}
-^ Green/Red  | Ground  | It gets the ground when is it OK to start the engine. Goes to the clutch switch, to the side stand switch and to the neutral switch diode.  |
+===== Mid RPM sputtering =====
-^ Yellow/Red  | +12V  | It gets the +12V through fuse #6 when the start button is pressed. Goes to the starter switch.  |
-===== Fuel pump relay and fuel pump =====
+After a **long period of non-use** (16 years), I restarted an NTV650. I had already cleaned the carburetor from the **sludge that had formed following the evaporation of the petrol**.
-^ Blue/Black   | +12V  | It gets the +12V when the relay is switched-on (the engine is running). Goes from the fuel cut relay to the fuel pump.   |
+The bike starts easily and **holds the minimum speed well**, but when you increase the gas, **around 3000 - 4000 rpm, it begins to splutter** noticeably. After a few minutes of operation it seems that the front cylinder does not work because it is practically cold, unlike the rear which has reached the temperature. After checking the ignition coil by measuring the resistance of the primary and secondary windings and verifying that there was a spark at the spark plug, I decided that I had to disassemble the carburetors again.
-^ Black        | +12V  | It gets the +12V when the ignition switch is ON. It goes to the fuse #6.  |
-^ Blue/Yellow  |  | It gets the signal from the ignition coils to switch the relay ON. It goes to the spark unit.  |
-===== Ignition coils and pulse generator =====
+It turned out that the idle circuit had been cleaned correctly, in fact the bike worked perfectly at idle. But **the main jet duct still contained some dirt**: opening the throttle the air/fuel mix were **too lean**, to the point that the engine ran on only one cylinder. **The uncobusted petrol sometimes was detonating**, thus the sputtering.
+===== Web resources =====
-{{:tecnica:motori:honda_ntv650:honda-ntv650-electric-diagram-ignition.png?600|Honda NTV650 Ignition}}
-Measure the resistance of the primary and secondary ignition coils, then the resistance of the pulse generator coils. Reference values are for 20°C/68°F.
-=== Primary coil resistance ===
-The primary coil is **connected to the two FASTON male terminals**; it is normally powered by the low voltage current supplied by the spark unit. The variation in the intensity of the current produced by the spark unit produces, by induction, a high voltage current in the secondary coil.
-  * **Blue/Yellow** - **Black/White** (rear): 2.2 - 2.6 Ω (ohm)
-  * **Yellow/Blue** - **Black/White** (front): 2.2 - 2.6 Ω (ohm)
-=== Secondary coil resistance ===
-The secondary coil is **connected to the two spark plug wires**. The high voltage current inducted by the variation of the current flowing into the primary coils, produces two contemporary sparks at both the spark plugs, using the ground to close the circuit.
-  * Between **spark plug caps**: 30 - 36 kΩ (kohm)
-  * Between **terminals** (spark plug wires removed): 20 - 25 kΩ (kohm)
-=== Pulse generator resistance ===
-  * **White/Yellow** - **Yellow** (front): 450 - 550 Ω (ohm)
-  * **White/Blue** - **Blue** (rear): 450 - 550 Ω (ohm)
-===== Spark unit =====
-^ Green/White  | Ground  | It connects to the ground when it is OK to run the engine. Goes to the clutch switch, the side stand switch and the neutral switch diode.  |
-^ Yellow/Blue  |  | Goes to the rear ignition coil. Gets the +12V battery voltage when the engine stop switch is on the RUN position and the ignition switch is ON.  |
-^ Black/White  | +12V  | It gets the +12V through fuse #6 when the engine stop switch is on the RUN position and the ignition switch is ON. Goes to the ignition coils and to the engine stop switch.  |
-^ Blue/Yellow  |  | Goes to the front ignition coil. Gets the +12V battery voltage when the engine stop switch is on the RUN position and the ignition switch is ON.  |
-^ Green  | Ground  | Always connected to the ground.   |
-^ Light green/Red  | Ground  | It connects to the ground when the gear is in neutral position. Goes to the neutral switch.  |
+  * **[[https://www.thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1477581-mid-rpm-sputtering/|Mid RPM sputtering]]**
+  * **[[https://www.thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/964557-engine-stutters-while-trying-to-hold-a-constant-speed/|Engine stutters while trying to hold a constant speed]]**